Cider might have been the drink this nation was built on, but post-Prohibition it became something of a no-man’s drink, occupying space somewhere between fizzy beer and supermarket wine and becoming synonymous with drunk sorority girls.

Now restaurateurs, sommeliers and bartenders are acknowledging its unique merits once again, stacking their drink lists with at least a few dry, respectable bottles that are giving wine and craft beer a run for their money.